Just an hour north of Paris lies a hidden treasure that most tourists—and even seasoned travelers—overlook. Meet Lens, a former coal-mining town transformed into a cultural powerhouse with a Louvre outpost, haunting war memorials, and surreal green-topped slag heaps known as terrils. If you’re craving art without the crowds, history without the hype, and views that linger long after you’ve left, Lens might just be your perfect day trip.
Why Lens? The Louvre’s Best-Kept Secret
Forget the endless lines at the Paris Louvre. In Lens, you’ll find Louvre-Lens—a sleek, modern satellite museum designed by Japanese firm SANAA. Opened in 2012 on the site of a former coal mine, it blends seamlessly into the landscape with five low-slung, silver-gray pavilions.
The crown jewel? The Galerie du Temps (Gallery of Time)—a 32,000-square-foot space where over 200 masterpieces from the Louvre in Paris are displayed not by geography, but by era and theme. Think Egyptian sphinxes next to Renaissance portraits and prehistoric sculptures—all for free.
What’s New in 2025?
Following a major 2024 renovation, the museum now showcases fresh highlights like Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s “The Four Seasons” and a rare 18,000 B.C. limestone bull sculpture on loan from another institution. Temporary exhibits have tackled bold themes—from the evolution of wartime imagery to the opulence of French royal dining tables.
Step Back in Time: Art Deco, War, and Resilience
Lens isn’t just about art—it’s a living museum of resilience. Once a booming coal hub, the city was nearly erased during World War I, then bombed again in WWII. Yet it rebuilt, often in striking Art Deco style.
Don’t miss:
- Lens Train Station: Shaped like a steam locomotive, adorned with mining-themed mosaics.
- Maison Claude Jeanson: An 85-year-old teahouse serving almond croissants and chocolate sculptures of famous artworks.
- Apollo Hotel: A restored Art Deco cinema now housing a chic restaurant and rooms.
Hike the Terrils: Where Coal Meets Conservation
Just two miles northwest of the museum lie the terrils—man-made hills of coal slag now blanketed in wildflowers, orchids, and even grapevines. UNESCO designated the entire mining basin a World Heritage Site in 2012, and today these eco-reclaimed mounds offer panoramic views and unexpected biodiversity.
Pro tip: Wear hiking shoes! The trail gets steep and rocky near the summit (over 600 feet high). Bring binoculars—you might spot rare birds or catch a meditation class mid-hill.
World War I Remembrance Trail
History buffs should allocate time for two solemn stops:
| Site | Distance from Louvre-Lens | Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| Notre Dame de Lorette | 4 miles west | France’s largest military cemetery; Art Deco basilica; Ring of Remembrance with 580,000 names |
| Vimy Ridge Canadian Memorial | 4 miles south | Monument honoring 66,000 Canadian soldiers; reconstructed trenches |
End Your Day Like a Local
Before hopping back on the train to Paris, grab a pint of Ch’ti beer and a legendary order of fries at La Loco—a no-frills bar across from the station. Their “world’s best” fries (€4 for two pounds!) come piping hot on wax paper. Perfect for snacking on the ride home.
How to Get There
Take the high-speed TGV from Paris Gare du Nord to Lens—just 1 hour and 10 minutes. Trains run regularly, and tickets start around €25 round-trip if booked in advance.
Sources
New York Times: Looking for a Perfect Day Trip From Paris? Put Lens on Your List
